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Showing posts from 2021

Gingham.

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 "Gingham"  comes from the Malayan word genggang, or "striped."  The way we identify gingham, is as being a contrasting-check shirt, this was not how the fabric was originally. True gingham is distinguished primarily for being a "dyed in the yarn" fabric, meaning the yarn is dyed before it is woven. Jake Gallagher, GQ. I've finished a Gingham shirt with the new small collar. It seemed to be forgettable fabric, polyester, like school uniform fabric, but it made up rather well. No bias pockets or trim. I thought straight would make a change even if more fiddly. There was the new tiny collar, keeping the stand the same size as the deeper collar has helped it sit well. Perhaps it would be good to make a cutaway or rounded collar using this piece next time. On a different note, I use 'leader scraps' when I'm sewing to start off on a seam without having to hold the threads. My friend David Beschi saves and frames them bec...

A new collar.

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  Made a new, smaller collar for the block shirt, the pattern is a vintage Simplicity from 1979, so it originally had a high collar with long peaks. I shortened it by 1cm and made it less ‘peaky’ years ago but have gone further this time and taken another 1cm off. It makes a nice little collar. This is the progression from the original. The collar stand was shortened from the original to the middle size, but not for the latest. It makes a neat little collar that will work well with bowties. It’s risky to travel far these days and the major fabric shop is about 20ks away, so I’m just using whatever I have, which isn’t much. There is enough gingham for a shirt but it’s Polyester, not a favourite fabric. Merry Christmas, Stay safe, Will.

More denim.

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 Made a shirt out of light-weight denim and was going to use the wrong side for a contrast yoke but decided against it. The wrong side is a nice grey, but it didn't work. Will be using the block shirt pattern; Simplicity 8711, issued in 1979. I occasionally think I'll use one of the other vintage patterns in the collection, but it always ends up this one, I know it fits and have made lots of extras for it, different yokes, pockets and collars, etc. One thing I like about it is the back yoke/lower back, the back is curved and the yoke is straight, this pulls it into the neck at the back. After watching Seinfeld in the '90s where Jerry wore a lot of shirts made with great fabric but they pulled away from his neck at the back which isn't very flattering (apart from the looseness and big sleeves of shirts in that era). It's going to have a placket front. I bought some embroidery threads recently, mainly because they are shiny...

Powder blue.

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  I’ve made a shirt, it’s been a while, I seem to have lost interest and have given away a lot of sewing stuff; three machines and tonnes of fabric. I almost gave away the very old machines but the charity shop didn’t want them and I’m glad now and won’t be that foolish again. It is an unprepossessing shirt, plain blue, but the fabric is soft and pleasant to wear. I had a serious battle with one of my overlockers and had to admit defeat. Perhaps it needs a service.  A wet and mild summer was promised, and it seems to be just that, it’s rained for two weeks and the garden is bright green and lush. I took a cutting from a gardenia last year and it has flowered, the perfume from just one bloom fills the whole room. I hope there will be a lot more flowers as summer progresses. That’s my lot, Take care, Will.

Looking for inspiration.

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It's been a long time since I have sewn anything and am looking for something to start a spark. It's pleasant to look through my old patterns anyway. I didn't realise that I had so many in my size and have never been used by me. I have made three of these. Haven't made these but one has piqued my interest... This one; long-sleeved version. It's a 1959 pattern - old patterns fit much better because more effort has gone into the fit. Let's hope it happens soon, my sewing machine needs a run. I gave three sewing machines to a charity shop last week, along with a lot of fabric and I actually don't regret it - I just have too much stuff, let someone have the benefit of it all. That's my lot for the day, Take care, Will.

The last days of Spring.

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  The last month of spring, actually; it’s been pleasant  and everything is blooming. Jacarandas are in flower and the whole town smells honey-sweet, the trees will soon lay their purple carpet as the flowers fall. Not a great photograph and it doesn’t show the Poincianas vying for gaudy supremacy. It’s a wonderful sight to see purple and red trees everywhere. Native Bottlebrushes are beautiful, and the parrots love their nectar. My jungle. A birds-nest fern I planted decades ago, it’s now about 2 metres across and beginning to unfurl new fronds. I was speaking to a friend recently, he’s English and has lived here for a long time but still isn’t used to the upside-down seasons – like Christmas in the middle of summer. When I was young, my parents always had a traditional hot Christmas dinner even if the weather was pushing 40 degrees celsius. Nowadays it’s seafood and white wine, people line up at the fish markets at 4 in the morning to buy their prawns and lobsters, etc. I ha...

Heritage.

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  My Great-Grandparents left their home town, Newton Airds (now named Newtownards) in County Down, Ireland, and travelled to Australia on the Southern Ocean, setting out in March 1868 – it was a six or seven-week journey. His name was William and his wife, Jane Lawther–my family has been stuck in a name rut for generations…so many Williams! Anyway, I travelled to the UK in the 1960s, lived there for many years and never visited Ireland – I always thought I would have plenty of time and was too busy enjoying all that ‘Swinging London’ offered but I returned to Australia and never made it, so that was lost to me. These are the remains of their Irish cottage at Emu Flat in Victoria (photo by local photographer, Steve McNeil). They had eleven children. William ‘Willie’ Rainey Jane Lawther Rainey This won’t be a genealogy site but still about sewing of course, as well as everyday things. I don’t sew as much as I used to, so thought it was time to move on a little. Regards, Will.

Variations

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  I made up a quilting pattern that uses small pieces of fabric because I don’t like waste and it can be used in different ways, which is interesting. Patterns among patterns, there are other possible variations as well. Another one, this is not so interesting. I ran out of fabric when I made these blocks and it was one block short and of course, couldn’t find the fabric again…but it will probably be years before the quilt is finished anyway. Cold, windy and not at all springlike today, great weather for sewing. Take care, Regards,  Will.

No-sew zone.

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  A pinched nerve in my leg is making it impossible to sew, it’s been over a week and have had to give in and see a doctor and that means physiotherapy on Tuesday. I bought a walking stick a while ago in preparation for old age, the chemist range is clinical – practical but ugly, I’ve now had a chance to use it (A chance I would happily live without). It’s inlaid with brass. The head looks how I feel. Apart from that, this is first hint of Spring; an Earlicheer (Early & cheery) Jonquil, I had to pick it, the perfume from just one bloom fills the room. So, nothing happening, a length of white polycotton is pressed and ready to cut, I hope I still remember how to make a shirt.

Bit of a break.

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  I can’t believe it, I haven’t sewn for weeks and don’t miss it. Perhaps after so many years it’s burnout. Macramé is the latest, and the Jacaranda outside the back door is weighed down with hanging pots. I’m in a rut with the design but they are rather relaxing to make. It’s mid-winter and my favourite time in the garden; no mosquitoes and no sun hat, I’ve planted a few roses, this usually happens in August but they were in the shop, so why not? They’re doing well. I’ve started one small sewing project, an apron. I live with a watercolourist and he is in need of a new one. It’s raining today, so no gardening. Take care, Will.

Check.

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  Check. It’s taken a while to finish this shirt; too many distractions. Anyway, it’s done, the fabric is a loose weave and a little difficult, plus I find dark colours hard to work with. I used glue and quilting clips to hold the tails as the fabric was bulky and didn’t want to behave. I am certainly glad it’s finished, it hung around (literally) for far too long. On to the next project. I had a Covid shot last week,; AstraZeneca and no ill effects, the system was quick and efficient, I rang to make an appointment and had the jab that evening. The weather is growing cooler, it will soon be winter…the shirt was finished just in time. That’s it for today, take care. Will.

It begins again.

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 I haven't been able to sew for a while and it's great to start again. The shirt I shall be making is for winter (which is almost here). It was a remnant from a charity shop - I didn't think much of it until it was started but now I like it. Only the collar so far, for me, it's always the trickiest bit and best done first. It has been raining non-stop today, so perfect for sewing - May is the last month of Autumn, so winter is on its way, my favourite season. Back to the machine. Take care, Will.

Curvy.

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 I have developed sewer's block with the Levi jacket; the muslin is basically finished and it is alright but I don't feel like continuing with it right now - the collar method is strange and I shall probably look at other patterns and see if I can make it easier. This is it so far: It's an old sheet, so the fabric doesn't have much body, it does fit, it's an '80s pattern so it's a bit full but that'll be good for winter with knitwear underneath. Anyway, I decided to look at some of my quilting and templates; I have two favourites, the 9-Blade Fan and Drunkard's Path. Originally, I wanted to make a fan but couldn't find a template, so I made my own and it worked out well. The only trouble was that it needed to be in something tougher than pattern cardboard if I wanted to make a lot of them...so, back to searching online and I discovered just what I wanted from Fons & Porter. It consists of three pieces, the la...